Monday, February 11, 2008

Underbust Corset

So very happy. Have finally got an underbust corset pattern that works for me. I think I mentioned it before, but I have cut down my Victorian corset pattern so that it is the correct length for underbust. And as it fits me so very well, it actually looks good on me. No more straight up and down shape, no siree. I have a waist with it. Which was the actual goal.

So, since I didn’t get around to posting just about my steampunk underbust, I thought I would do a bit of a comparison between the two patterns. While I love how this one turned out, I will have to be careful of what I wear it with. Because it gives me no waist it looks a bit silly just over a tight blouse or shirt. But it looks really great with my pirate shirt. Which works for me because that is why I made it. My favourite thing about this corset is the fabric. I used dupion silk. So right from the beginning I am pre-determined to like it, just on that fact. But the colour really works as well. I went for an earthy kind of natural tone because I wanted me whole outfit to be earthy. And I must say that the colour works for me. I may just have to have another corset out of the same coloured silk. And having worked with silk on a corset now, I know that I would like to use it in the future. It is so very nice to sew with and it works well for me. So I have added a couple of pictures. If you go back down to the steampunk photos, you can see how it looks with a billowy shirt. But the photo now, shows how it looks with a regular shirt. And you can really see how straight it looks. Which is rather strange for me considering that I have a really definite waist. I drew up the pattern from some instructions on line and thought that it would work, but it really does not have enough shaping. Or maybe I just measured me too wrong.

Anyway when I put it together I used 3 layers. Like I always do. The external silk, the shapewell interlining and the cotton lining. The cotton I used is some that I had on hand, leftovers from another project. But I like the inside contrast and how it looks against the boning casing. Speaking of, my casings are bias tape. I usually like to go for the pre-folded stuff that you get at spotlight. Mostly because I can get it quite a few colours and it is thick enough and has a good strength, as well as being wide enough for my use. And thankfully the colour that I get contrasts nicely with the silk colour and complimented the remainder of my outfit.

And now, onto my new underbust. This one really didn’t cost me much as I used leftover lining (the reason I keep scraps from other projects) and some leftover jacquard from a previous corset. Which I thought would work well for the very first trial. And I must say that I am really happy with how it turned out. Aside from the fact that I used hook and eye tape up the centre front, it fits me rather well. I usually prefer a zip, but I didn’t have one on hand and thought that the leftover tape I had lying around would work well. It does work, but it makes putting it on rather difficult, because you have to work on each individual hook, staring in the middle and do them up. And all this while having to look over the top of my boobs. Not an easy feat. But like I said, this was a trial and my next one will work wonders.

This one went together well, but what do you expect. I have used the pattern a number of times and it has turned out well each one. And I have adjusted it to the right size and shape for me. Also it has enough waist definition to flatter my shape and I can tight lace it. Or I will be able to with the next one as I will use a zip instead of the hook and eye tape.

My next corsetry ambitions are quite extensive, and will keep my busy for quite some time. I need to make a new undergarment Victorian corset. Now that my pattern is perfected, I would like to get one done as the foundation for my costumes. After that, I want to start work on my Edwardian one. I have ambition to get a true s-bend corset completed. This may take quite a bit of work as I am drafting it up from a pattern out of corsets and crinolines. But I really think that it will give my Edwardian outfit a nice silhouette and help to really emphasise that it is in fact Edwardian. After that, I need to get a set of regency stays done. I have been considering getting the mantua maker pattern to do this instead of drafting from corsets and crinolines. Mostly because for one it is the full length pattern (to give me a nicer line under my dress) and it means that I don’t have to draft it up myself. The only problem is that I am not sure if they sell just the pattern on its own or you have to buy the kit. Which is a bit expensive and I am sure that I could do it a lot cheaper with my own fabric and boning. After that I may attempt doing the Silverado corset. I do have the pattern for it, but I just haven’t gotten around to doing anything more that that. Especially considering that I am getting my simplicity corset pattern correct. I will have to see. By then I may need to take holidays and get stuck into some sewing. I really don’t mind doing that, at least I get the house to myself and I get really productive. Hmmm, not a bad idea.

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